Fashion World event New York fashion Zhou, the big size model Ashley Graham First ascended the runway, showing the full woman's self-confidence. On the other hand, black models have begun to challenge, such as Nykhor Paul and Jourdan Dunn, who have questioned the fashion circle's racial discrimination. For atypical bodies, the pain of discrimination is still there, and we are still on the road to hard work. (Extended reading: jump off the beauty of the Ugly theory of relativity!) Lizzie velasquez:"Don't call me the ugliest woman in the world."
New York Fashion Week Fashion Week with Paris, Milan, London Fashion Week and said the world's four Fashion week, held two times a year, will be in February to show the autumn and winter fashion, September is the next spring and summer fashion as the protagonist.
Fashion Week carries a woman's desire for clothes, like Zhang ailing once wrote a sentence: "People, all live in his own clothes." " Fashion is an attitude, a way of life, but because the fashion industry has always been" thin "and" white "as the standard, so that the models for their career, and endlessly in the thin road turn, or reluctantly to meet the standards of the fashion industry, in exchange for the favor of the spotlight.
#IAmSizeSexy! Big size models walk into fashion Week
But not all models are toeing. Under this harsh aesthetic standard, this year's New York fashion Zhou, the big size brand addition Elle and the big size model Ashley Graham, launched the same name series,Ashley Graham Leading a group of big size models, the opportunity to debut in New York Fashion Week , so that the bone model to dominate the runway, plump women can also show the charm of self-confidence. (Recommended reading: Stop putting fat girls and skinny girls on Libra: Stop using the body to reset the meaning of a person )
Ashley Graham said in Instagram that the experience was extraordinary and that all the girls walking on the stage were stunning. She also interviewed in PopSugar that when she went to the runway, she thought, "Damn, I look great!" 」
The 28-year-old Ashley Graham, a model in large size, prides himself on a size 16-yard suit. In recent years, more and more brands have begun to enable large-code models. Zana Bayne and Chromat, for example, have invited big-model catwalk shows. (Extended reading: seeing Taiwan from the physical freedom of Finland: our unintentional "weight" discrimination )
As for the fashion world, Ashley Graham said: "We are sure to make more progress, and activities like this really improve people's attention to the diversity of the body." 」
During the show, guests were encouraged to use #IAmSizeSexy labels to express different dimensions of beauty. So the relevant photos on the Instagram are labeled with the relevant labels, so that plump girl's self-confidence and ease, in the community web site flow, which attracted more than 12,000 related to share, become the highlight of the fashion show.
Hides the color discrimination under the profession
But in addition to the large size models to win the "beauty" of the voice of the right, black models have begun to the standards of fashion industry.
Black model Nykhor Paul published an open letter in his Instagram, accusing the makeup artist in the fashion show to be "professional" and "respectful to others". Nykhor Paul begins by calling the "Dear White man in the fashion world" to the object of her appeal, accusing the makeup artist of not preparing the proper product to use on her
"In the end, why do our black models have to wear their own makeup to the fashion show, and the white models don't have to do anything?" A good makeup artist should be fully prepared to come back to work, because you already know what will happen. Don't say you are sorry, this is just insulting me, at least make some efforts to change the situation! 」
This lack of expertise is not uncommon in the fashion world. It means universal ignorance of
and Jourdan Dunn once said to her as a broker, "you're the only black model in the show that's been chosen, isn't it?" "And for the natural absence of the black girl, it was baffling. In addition to being treated as accidental luck,Jourdan Dunn, who had been directly screen out of the show for skin color , said: "We already have a black model, don't need more black girls!" She was on her way to the catwalk, angry and straight back home.
Standards still bind the United States
Mic has made a film about the racial imbalance in the fashion circle, and with charts, interviews and hands-on experiments, let's get closer to the heart of the problem. as can be seen from the film, the New York fashion Zhou Xiu 2008-2014 years of white models, from the 87% gradually reduced to 79%. But the pace of adjustment is very slow.
In addition to the dominance of the runway model, in the film, the Mic channel editor Liz Plank and the former model Yomi Abiola also done experiments, they bought a famous fashion magazine, "White model" and "other skin models" to distinguish between , To count the number of pages in both accounts. As a result, there is a wide disparity between the two, and even without considering the two-page design, the white model has 94 pages, and the other skin tones are only 13 and a half. (same field Gayon: Oscar actress Lupita Nyong ' O true confession: Don't let the appearance determine your value )
They are also compared to Vogue magazine, a total of 272 ads in the magazine is "only white people's ads," only 38 of the ads are "there are other skin race appearance of advertising." Shows the mainstream of the aesthetic still dominate the fashion industry, the world's beauty is not only blonde, slender waist, big breasts, but the cover of fashion magazines is still white skin slender beauty as the protagonist, because "non-white models, the cover of large size models will affect sales."
Just like the famous American Sports Illustrated swimsuit feature has not been used in the past 2008 years any colored, a&f CEO himself admits: "Only to sell thin, beautiful, handsome and attractive people!" ", American casual apparel brand Tommy Hilfiger has been a lawsuit against the Chinese people, not only non-white models, physical and mental handicap models, large size models, trans-gender models ... And the atypical body, the possibility of dominating one's body in the fashion circle is still quite weak.
The dilemma of atypical bodies is that even if the mind is squeezed into the narrow door of fashion , it is difficult to contend with this mechanism. There may be a handful of atypical body models on the stage, but their bodies still need to be consumed by fashion to achieve self-realization. Left the runway, the reality of the vision still let them feel the naked glow.
As the "ugly Model" brokerage company (UGLY MODELS modeling Agency), known for its fangs of the male models Del, has said that although he has been fortunate in the fashion circle has a stable exposure, and even mainstream fashion brands, such as Calvin Klein also invited him to board the AD, His suffering from discrimination in reality is still deeply rooted. (Extended reading: When we can not create a society of different coexistence, "Fat girl is very beautiful" will become sentimental )
Most of the time he didn't even dare to show that he was a model, because his strange looks are different from the imagination of the models, "People don't want to believe I'm a model", so Del would rather tell someone that he is a janitor, and that he will be excluded from the mainstream social work link. This honest confession gory, whether in the fashion circle, or in reality, the "beauty" of the imagination is not loose, the future is also looking forward to the distant road.